Ula feels split in two: up top, a quiet, self-contained little district center; down below, a coastline opening onto the gulf, famous for its ice-cold estuary water and claimed by windsurfers. You may not have decided which side you belong to yet, and that's completely normal — the indecision is basically the local sport. The upper half teaches you to slow down, the lower half teaches you the wind. Whichever lesson's on today, let the dice call it; you just pack the bag.